Preserved Foods › Confit

As the world grows increasingly disorderly, I find myself seeking refuge in the past. By “the past,” I mean cookbooks. I don’t have a time machine. Let us turn to Britain between the wars. Built during World War II, but not in Britain. Shot several years ago. — It is…

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Seafood Rillettes

May 27, 2019

Sometimes a recipe comes to you numerous times before you think to make it. Such was the case with seafood rillettes. As a nervous fish cook and somebody whose relationship to canned fish began and ended with tuna, seafood rillettes weren’t on my radar. Aiming for the casual indoor picnic…

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Duck Confit

October 2, 2015

Given the hugely happy response to cheese biscuits (thank you!), it’s tempting to skip writing about duck. I’m not sure why duck makes people nervous, but it does. Tell people you make confit at home and get funny looks. Here is your intrepid author, reflected in her kitchen window at 7am this…

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  We eat seasonally in the IK, though ours is not the precious pastime of snooty Northern Californians. Yes, we live an area of agricultural bounty, making seasonal eating easy and pleasurable. Yet this same location confers a certain responsibility: we have no excuse for consuming fruits or vegetables from…

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Being a non-gardener means never experiencing the zucchini cycle: rapture over the first zuke gradually morphing into insomnia over what Barbara Kingsolver, in Animal, Vegetable, Miracle, calls “the pyramid of excess vegetable biomass that was taking over our lives.” In fact, having to come to summer squash rather recently (more on…

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