Spicy Lamb Burgers

July 5, 2016

Saturday night, in a surpassing gesture toward adulthood, I decided to update my operating system. You know, install all those niggling updates it’s constantly pestering me about: tightening up the operating system….honing safety and security….something about email…plus improving all those programs I’ve never opened, like GarageBand.

I set the update uploading, or downloading, or whatever the hell it does, and went off to binge watch the X-Files with John. A couple hours later, John glanced into my study.

“Your computer is done.”

Done is the operative adjective here. Whatever OSX El Capitan version installed killed my finder, taking out other useful features, like proper i-photo functionality right along with it.

There is upside to this. I did not lose any writing or photography (notice how calm I am). Even better, I married an engineer who knows how to repair such messes. We must reinstall the operating system, a process requiring days. I write from John’s computer, graciously lent for the occasion. Only I am without my photos, which are trapped in operating system limbo. Meanwhile, an external hard drive makes its express way from Cupertino to the IK.

While every attempt will be made to bring you the usual level of elegance we here at the IK strive for, your patience is appreciated.

So, spicy lamb burgers.

I think I’ve mentioned our brief membership in a meat CSA–Community Supported Agriculture Program–wherein we received monthly delivery of organic meat from a local farm. Box contents, chosen by the farmer, invariably contained one large roast and numerous one-pound bags of ground beef, pork, lamb, and/or goat.

It wasn’t long before I found myself desperately searching out recipes creatively utilizing ground meat. I made Kheemas both Indian and Korean, Simon Hopkinson’s mince (which I loved but John did not), meatballs of every persuasion, Claudia Roden’s brochettes, keftas, and kebabs, Tamasin Day-Lewis’s Italian meat loaf.

What we liked best, though, wasn’t a formal recipe. More of a bits-and-pieces assemblage, these meals are free associations involving various cuisines: Asia, Mexico, Italy, the Middle East.

The meat–here, ground lamb, but just as easily ground chicken or pork–is formed into smallish patties, seasoned with herbs and spices, sautéed, then served with an appropriate flatbread. That might be an authentic flatbread we’ve taken time to bake. Often it’s tortillas. Here, it’s pita bread.

Alongside, appropriate vegetables are heaped on a plate–crisp lettuce, a few shreds of onion or scallion, finely sliced radish. For me, some sour cream, yogurt, or salsa: whatever is appropriate. Maybe black beans or Israeli couscous. We wrap the patties in bread, add veggies of our choice, dip in the sauce: easy, messy, good.

DSC_0062

When I began making these spicy lamb burgers, I had no idea how closely they aligned with Middle Eastern Schwarma recipes. This was less a case of reinventing the wheel than my internalizing a great deal of cookbook reading and applying what I’d learned. So know this isn’t a case of recipe plagiarizing, but a deep bow to Middle Eastern cuisine in all its gorgeous complexity.

“Spicy” may something of a misnomer. While I like a bright, assertively flavored burger–really, burgerlet–that doesn’t mean the spices should blow your head off. That said, if you prefer a milder approach, use quarter teaspoons of seasoning where the recipe calls for teaspoons. Or do a taste test by frying a small patty. You can always add more seasoning.

DSC_0041

Don’t freak out over the preserved lemons. Here’s a recipe. Don’t want to use preserved lemons?Fresh lemon juice is fine. So is bottled lemon juice. Who’s looking?

DSC_0032

Who’s looking also goes for how far you want to take your mortar and pestling/chopping/mincing of the spices/parsley/garlic/lemon/scallion mixture. As you see from the pictures, I don’t mind a chunkier texture. If you do, by all means haul out your processor or spice grinder and have at it.

DSC_0048

Spicy Lamb Burgers

yield 6-8 small burgers, feeding 2-3 people

1 pound ground lamb

1 teaspoon cumin seed

1 teaspoon coriander seed

1 teaspoon fennel seed

1 teaspoon black pepper

1-2 cardamom pods (optional)

1 1/2 teaspoons sea salt

1/4 bunch parsley (about 2 ounces)

1/2 preserved lemon or juice of 1 fresh lemon

1-2 garlic cloves (to taste)

1 scallion, white tips and bottom dark parts trimmed

For the dipping sauce:

1/2 cup full-fat plain yogurt

generous squeeze fresh lemon juice (to taste)

hot pepper flakes to taste; I use 1/2 teaspoon

small garlic clove, peeled and minced

Grind the cumin, coriander, fennel, and pepper in a mortar and pestle or spice grinder until crushed.

Crush the cardamom pods, if using, with a heavy object–the pestle, a meat mallet (go easy) or the flat a chef’s knife work well. Add seeds to seasonings.

Place everything in a large bowl that will hold the lamb.

Add the salt.

Mince the parsley and add to bowl. Mince the preserved lemon rind, if using, or add lemon juice to bowl, if using fresh lemon.

Peel and mince garlic finely. Trim scallion, slice thinly. Add both ingredients to bowl.

Add the lamb.

Mix all ingredients together; I find clean hands best for this job. Mix until just blended; overmixing can cause toughness.

If possible, chill lamb in refrigerator, covered, 1-24 hours so flavors can meld. Bring to room temperature before cooking. If not, not.

To cook:

Form lamb in patties of your preferred size, from regular burgers to smaller patties. I get 6-8 patties from a pound of meat, depending on how lazy I am.

Heat a 10-12 inch nonstick, cast-iron, or other heavy sauté pan on medium heat. Lamb will give off fat, so you don’t want to add any fat to the pan.

Cook lamb 4-5 minutes a side, flipping to ensure even cooking. As my oven burner has hot spots, I find it easiest to cover the pan after initial sear for a total cooking time of about 20 minutes. This ensures lamb is cooked through.

Serve with yogurt sauce, which is made by combining all dipping sauce ingredients, salad, and flatbreads. Very good in summer months with fava beans, peas, and artichokes.

Note: I pour off excess fat in a jar kept in the fridge for the purpose.

Spicy lamb burgers keep, well-wrapped, 3 days in refrigerator or 3 months, frozen.

DSC_0067