Pare any discolored bits off the cauliflower. Trim any discolored or ragged leaves. Shave any ragged bits off the stem.

Put the cauliflower in a 3-4 quart/liter pot. Fill with water just to cover. Lightly salt–about two tablespoons is fine.

Bring water to boil and keep at brisk simmer. Cover pan and cook cauliflower, 15-20 minutes, until a tester slides through the vegetable easily. You want the cauliflower tender but not mushy or falling apart.

Carefully move cauliflower to strainer set in sink. Allow cauliflower to drain and cool until easy to handle. If it does come apart, that’s okay.

While the cauliflower cools off, slice the butter into smaller bits. This makes it easier to manipulate, but if you prefer to leave it in a chunk, that’s okay, too.

Once the cauliflower is cool enough to handle, put it in a bowl just large enough to contain it.

Using a small, thin-bladed knife, make several deep cuts into the head of caulilflower. Leave it intact.

Using the same knife or your very clean hands, spread 1.5 tablespoons butter over the cauliflower. Aim for the cuts you just made. Butter will slide down the sides of the vegetable. That’s fine. Take your time and make sure the entire cauliflower is generously buttered.

At this juncture you can add the rest of the butter or move on to the seasonings.

To add the seasonings: I used a quarter teaspoon of Tajin, dried oregano, dried onion powder, and dried garlic powder. I shook each over the cauliflower and massaged them using my hands. I did the same with the salt and pepper.

Serve buttery, tangy cauliflower with a green salad and bread, with pasta, or alongside pork or poultry.

Refrigerate leftovers in a covered container up to five days. Freezing is not recommended.

Notes:

This recipe works with broccoli and broccoflower.

I used a spider, which is pictured above, to move my cauliflower from pan to strainer. You could also use a large spoon or serving fork. Lacking a suitable implement, take care moving the vegetable from pot to strainer; the goal is keeping it intact.

Feel free to play with the seasonings. Fresh citrus is in season as I write; try squeezing fresh lemon, lime, or orange juice over your cauliflower.

Salted butter would be delicious here, too. Just take care not to oversalt.

Chaat masala and lime would be good, too. If you go this route, serve the cauliflower with rice or flatbread.

Another idea: roast a few garlic cloves. Rub them over the cauliflower. Serve with roast chicken, halved baby potatoes, and a green salad.

To make this vegan, replace the butter with margarine or another vegan butter.