The Insufficient Kitchen

Beef Stew for a Rainy Day

adapted from a recipe in the November/December 2005 issue of Cook’s Illustrated

Serving size depends on the size of your beef roast. Mine weighed 3 pounds/2.5 kilos, feeding two people four dinners and two lunches.

Preparation time: about 20 minutes preparation, then 2-3 hours braising, largely unattended.

The stew may also be prepared in a slow cooker, a pressure cooker, or in an Instant Pot.

Please see notes, below, for discussion of ingredients and variations.

You will need a large, lidded pot to prepare the beef stew. I used a 5 quart/liter enamel over steel Staub pot. Any comparable casserole will work. If your pan doesn’t have a lid, foil will work.

3 dried mushrooms, roughly equivalent to a tablespoon: porcini, cepes, shittake, lobster, whatever you have

roughly 1/2 cup/120 ml water or sherry, Madeira, dry Marsala, or red wine to soak the mushrooms

1-3 salt-packed anchovies, bones removed, rinsed and patted dry

2-4 strips of orange zest, white pith removed

two leafy sprigs fresh thyme

1 bay leaf

a sprig of parsley (optional)

1 two-three pound/approximately 2-2 1/2 kilo chuck roast, well marbled, in one piece or equivalent amount beef stew pieces

2-3 carrots, peeled, trimmed, and sliced into coins

1 medium to large yellow onion, peeled and sliced into rounds

2-4 large garlic cloves, peeled and thinly sliced

1/2 cup-3/4 cup/4-6 ounces/120-160 grams black olives, preferably pitted

2-4 oz/60 g salt pork, pig’s foot, or a piece of pancetta (see notes, below)

olive oil, for browning the meat

1/2 cup/4 oz/120 ml decent red wine (you may need a little more)

1 cup/8 oz/227 ml chicken broth, ideally home made, if not, low salt

1 14 oz/414g can best quality whole tomatoes in juice, either home-canned or purchased

2 tablespoons tomato paste

The beef may be presalted up to three days ahead of cooking. If you wish to presalt, use a teaspoon of salt per pound/half kilo of meat, and use less salt when preparing the dish.

Bring the ingredients to room temperature before beginning to cook.

Preheat the oven to 325F/160C

Place the dried mushrooms in a small dish. If using wine or spirits, pour over just enough to cover and set aside. If not using liquor, heat some water to boiling, and pour it over the mushrooms. Set aside.

Take the anchovy, orange zest, bay leaf, thyme sprigs, and parsley, if using, and tie them together with kitchen string. Set them aside for the moment.

Now slice the beef. Bear in mind it will cook more quickly if sliced into smaller pieces. My slices were slightly larger than the carrot coins. But the size of the chunks is up to you.

Once the beef is sliced, place the braising pot on the stove over low heat. Pour in a small amount of olive oil and allow it to warm.

Put the pig’s foot or other pork product, if using, at the bottom of the pot, along with the bouquet garni.

If the olives are not pitted, take a moment to pit them using the flat side of a chef’s knife.

Add the carrot, onion, garlic, and olives to the pot.

Remove the mushrooms from their soaking liquor or water and roughly chop into pieces. Add them to the pot. You can strain the mushroom soaking liquid through a coffee filter, if you think it necessary, or leave it be. Whatever you decide, don’t throw it out.

As noted in the post, I prefer to brown the beef in a separate frying pan. It’s a chore, but doing it in enameled pots makes me nervous. So put a large frying pan on the stove and turn the heat to medium high. Pour in about two tablespoons of olive oil. When it shimmers, add a few pieces of meat at a time. Crowding the pan makes the meat steam rather than brown.

The pieces of beef are ready to turn when they move easily rather than sticking to the pan. This depends on the beef’s size. In my case, this took about two minutes cooking time. I hate browning meat, so do two to three “faces” of beef before moving them to the braising pot. Try to refrain from constantly testing the meat, as this only interferes with the cooking. I say this from experience.

Once all the beef is browned, pour off any remaining fat from the pan. Tip in the remaining mushroom liquor/water and deglaze the pan, scraping up the tasty bits stuck to the bottom of the pan. Generous cooks add these to the braising pot. The rest of us eat them, as reward for slaving in the kitchen and cleaning up.

Now add the wine, chicken broth, canned tomatoes, and tomato paste to the pot. Stir gently to blend a bit. If it looks like the liquid level is too low, add more wine. Season with salt and pepper. If you have presalted the beef, bear this in mind when salting now.

Don’t worry if the stew looks awful. It will find itself while cooking. Cover pot and place in oven, checking periodically to ensure all is well. Cooking time is 2-3 hours, depending on your meat and your stove. The stew is done when you can prod the beef easily with a fork. The stew will also look and smell ready to eat.

Serve beef stew with rice, noodles, potatoes, or polenta. Bread and salad are most welcome.

Notes:

Almost every daube recipe I’ve encountered includes some sort of pork product. If you do not consume pork, omit it.  Try fresh mushrooms as an optional substitution. Wipe them clean with a paper towel, trim and slice them, toss into pot.

The onion may be replaced with shallots. Remove papery husk and slice thinly.

Don’t worry if the orange peel tears. It’s not here for a beauty contest, but to add flavor. Scrape off as much of the white pith as you can.

Please pit the olives. We do not want to start 2023 with anyone choking.

I promise you nobody will taste the anchovies. Salt-packed are best.

I used home-canned tomatoes, which I preserve in 2-cup jars. This is roughly 400 grams.

I keep a jar in the fridge for pouring off fat. When it’s full, I throw it out.

Stews are forgiving. You want to be sure there’s enough liquid without the food swimming in it. Meaning the meat should poke above the surface rather than being submerged.

Given meat’s soaring costs, you might consider replacing the beef with pork (granted, not much cheaper) or chicken (which does cost less).

If you use pork, be sure to buy a piece that is well-marbled with fat; pork belly would be ideal here. Pork chops would work as well. Avoid boneless cuts unless they’re fatty, as dried out pork isn’t pleasant eating. Swap red wine for white or Vermouth. If you soak the dried mushrooms in liquor, make sure it complements the dish.

If you opt for chicken, bone-in parts are best. Avoid boneless breast, as dryness is a risk. If you must use boneless parts, thigh is best. Check for doneness after one hour. Swap red wine for a light, dry rose, white wine or Vermouth. As above, make sure the mushroom soaking liquor complements the dish.

Orange peel makes a subtle, warming addition to soups and stews. It’s worth saving a stack in the freezer

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