Marinate the chicken. In an oven-safe ceramic, glass, or enameled cast-iron baking pan, squeeze the quartered lemons over the chicken thighs, tossing the spent quarters in with the chicken. Add about a teaspoon of salt. Refrigerate, covered with foil or plastic wrap, 1-24 hours. Often I prepare this the night before, leaving the chicken overnight and all day.

Allow the chicken and the pan to come to room temperature. Putting a fridge-cold pan into a hot oven may shatter it: if for some reason you must cook the chicken fridge-cold, transfer it to another baking pan and add about 15 minutes cooking time.

Preheat the oven to 325F.

Add liquid to come about halfway up the sides of the chicken. Add the garlic. I toss it in unpeeled. It bakes in the oven, becoming soft and sweet.

If you prefer crisp skin, be sure your thighs are skin-side up.

Bake the chicken for an hour and fifteen minutes before checking for doneness. Listen for it to “sing”–it will sizzle and crackle. Or breathe deeply: a cooked chicken smells done. Do check with a fork and knife: the juices should run clear, or, if the bird is organic, look just slightly pink but NOT bloody. Meat should be fork tender and pull easily from the bone. Skin should crunch and break under pressure. It may need 15 more minutes cooking for total of 90 minutes.

Note: Vary the seasoning by adding fennel, paprika, coriander, and hot pepper flakes.

Serve your finest china or cheapest melamine.