Chill a glass in the freezer (purely optional).

If you have a juicer, juice enough fruit to get about 1/3 cup. If you haven’t a juicer, squeeze the fruit through a small strainer into a bowl, or, if you’re lazy like me, directly into the glass.

Rose Gray and Ruth Rogers say you want slightly less fruit juice than wine.

Top with sparkling wine.

That’s it.

Notes:

This isn’t  precision bartending. Taste: if you want a little more fruit, squeeze it in. Or pour a little more wine.

Variations are many: this cries out for a little Grand Marnier or Triple Sec.The merest drop of Bulleit Bourbon, with its orange undertones, would work well, but the drink then moves from Aperitif territory towards pre-prandial wallop.The same applies for vodka.

No need to limit yourself to mandarins.Try oranges, grapefruit, lemons, or pomegranates, adding a little superfine sugar where needed.

Sparkling wine obviously isn’t available in 6-8 ounce portions. Buy a bottle: even if it’s only one or two of you, it shouldn’t be hard to finish over a few days, meaning you need not inebriate yourself before the bubbles flatten.