Grind the cumin, coriander, fennel, and pepper in a mortar and pestle or spice grinder until crushed.

Crush the cardamom pods, if using, with a heavy object–the pestle, a meat mallet (go easy) or the flat a chef’s knife work well. Add seeds to seasonings.

Place everything in a large bowl that will hold the lamb.

Add the salt.

Mince the parsley and add to bowl. Mince the preserved lemon rind, if using, or add lemon juice to bowl, if using fresh lemon.

Peel and mince garlic finely. Trim scallion, slice thinly. Add both ingredients to bowl.

Add the lamb.

Mix all ingredients together; I find clean hands best for this job. Mix until just blended; overmixing can cause toughness.

If possible, chill lamb in refrigerator, covered, 1-24 hours so flavors can meld. Bring to room temperature before cooking. If not, not.

To cook:

Form lamb in patties of your preferred size, from regular burgers to smaller patties. I get 6-8 patties from a pound of meat, depending on how lazy I am.

Heat a 10-12 inch nonstick, cast-iron, or other heavy sauté pan on medium heat. Lamb will give off fat, so you don’t want to add any fat to the pan.

Cook lamb 4-5 minutes a side, flipping to ensure even cooking. As my oven burner has hot spots, I find it easiest to cover the pan after initial sear for a total cooking time of about 20 minutes. This ensures lamb is cooked through.

Serve with yogurt sauce, which is made by combining all dipping sauce ingredients, salad, and flatbreads. Very good in summer months with fava beans, peas, and artichokes.

Note: I pour off excess fat in a jar kept in the fridge for the purpose.

Spicy lamb burgers keep, well-wrapped, 3 days in refrigerator or 3 months, frozen.