On tuna salad

June 7, 2025

 

For years tuna salad sandwiches, along with hot dogs and fish sticks, were the go-to food when feeding large numbers of American children, especially in school lunchrooms. These sandwiches were comprised of cheap white bread filled with a few limp pickle chips and an oval of tuna fish, gluey with mayonnaise. Sometimes this mayo was celery laden. Sometimes not. Whatever the case, the tuna sandwich was a staple in American school lunchrooms for decades.

Then tuna became overfished and ceased being a cheap go-to lunch. In fact, it ceased being any kind of lunch at all, unless you were very wealthy. And then tuna was usually dinner, and never in a sandwich.

Lacking fancy tuna, I give you seasonings on an elegant platter.

Tuna populations have rebounded enough to discuss them, though they are no longer the cheap, carefree meal of my childhood. Then again, few foods are.

Paid for by me.

I confess writing about tuna makes me a bit nervous. Nobody needs to be told how to make tuna sandwiches. I consulted numerous cookbooks, and they all seemed to agree. The few tuna salad recipes I managed to find offered scant instruction, the implication being they were taking up valuable page space better used by another, less familiar recipe.

(A few days later I found recipes for tuna casserole and tuna loaf in Mildred Bellin’s The Jewish Cookbook, which was published in 1958.)

Another, less familiar recipe.

Atop this, recent blogging newsletters all have a single message: Forget SEO. Forget AI. Shut up and get to the recipe.

Not, mind you, that I’ve ever spent a second on SEO or AI. Neither have anything to do with writing, food, or photography. As for annoyed types wishing to jump directly to the recipe, I doubt many of them read this blog. (But if you do, thanks.)

Returning to tuna fish.

I realized I thought about tuna as two separate foodstuffs, and figured I wasn’t alone. There is canned tuna, and there is the tuna served at sushi bars and upscale eateries. It is amazing, even improbable, that these are the same fish, so different are they in appearance, taste, and texture, to say nothing of cost.

Granted, the above is hardly a revelation on the level of the Cartesian mind-body split, but nobody is here for philosophy. (At least, I hope not.)

To this end, I give you the Insufficient Kitchen’s version of the Tuna Salad Sandwich, with some options to jazz it up, because heaven knows we should continue eating decently, even if it feels society is crashing down around our ears. We should eat decently anyway, because that is what civilized humans do, and we are–most of us, anyway–civilized enough to appreciate a good sandwich.

Tuna Salad Sandwich

yield: one sandwich; easily increased

Please see notes, below, for discussion of ingredients and recipe variations.

One 5 ounce/140 gram can tuna fish, packed in spring water or light olive oil, drained.

2 tablespoons-more or less- of your favorite mayonnaise

Half of a fresh lemon

from here, it’s a question of personal taste. Some possibilities:

two minced cornichons

minced dill pickle or pickle chips, to taste; about a tablespoon

a few minched green olives

a minced scallion

a minced celery stalk

toasted walnuts or almonds

a few drops of Worcestshire Sauce

a drop of your favorite hot sauce

dried oregano

dried thyme (sparingly)

black pepper

For the sandwich:

lettuce

sliced tomatoes

pickle chips

one or two slices sturdy bread: sourdough, pumpernickel, country bread, something that

won’t fall apart.

I drain tuna by barely opening the can and tipping it into my trash can. This keeps the tuna from leaking out with the liquid. If this isn’t possible, pat the top of the tuna dry with paper towels or non-linting dish towels. The most practical method is a colander set in the sink.

Place the drained tuna in a medium sized bowl. Add the mayonnaise and mix thoroughly. Squeeze lemon juice over to taste. I use about half of a fresh lemon, but taste as you go.

As noted in the ingredient list, from here additions to tuna salad are a question of personal taste. I like minched cornichons and a little scallion.

Place tomato and lettuce on bread, if using, and add the tuna. Close sandwich. Slice in half. Or don’t.

Eat.

Notes:

I adore Kewpie Mayonnaise so much I keep two unopened bottles on hand, lest supplies run low. Other people swear by Hellmans, which is sold under the Best name in certain parts of the United States.

Crisp lettuce varieties like iceberg add welcome crunch, while greens like arugula add peppery bite. This is purely a question of personal taste.

Make a tuna melt by laying a few slices of your favorite cheese atop the tuna. Place the sandwich halves on a tray lined with foil or a silicon liner. Broil the sandwich until the cheese is bubbling and browned. Keep a close eye on your sandwich, as bubbling can quickly become burnt.

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