Artichoke Risotto
In Chez Panisse Cooking, Paul Bertolli prepares artichokes by boiling them whole, then separating the hearts from the leaves. He-or, more likely, a sous chef–then scrapes the “meat” from each individual artichoke leaf, mixing it with chopped shallot, garlic, lemon juice, and olive oil. The resulting artichoke mush may…
Minestrone
For the non-Italian, deciding to prepare Minestrone can feel a little intimidating. Minestrone itself–a substantial vegetable soup–isn’t difficult to make. The problem is deciding which minestrone to make. Elizabeth David, writing in Italian Cooking, gives five recipes for minestrone. In The Essentials of Italian Cooking, Marcella Hazan offers a recipe…
Repairing a Ruined Recipe
Today’s post is less about “recipes” than it is about thinking creatively. More succinctly, it is how I turned one awful dish into two good ones, and saved the world. Well, maybe not that last bit. I am not the type who recycles leftovers into new dishes. As far as…
Tiramisu
I first tasted tiramisu at Filippo’s, an eatery in Oakland, California. Until its closure in 2022, Filippos served family style meals to a devoted clientele. For two years we lived within walking distance of the restaurant, and dined there weekly. Filippo’s served other desserts, but our meals invariably concluded with…
On Risotto
Certain foods carry a mystique around their preparation. Whipped cream, souffles, mayonnaise, pie crusts: all are imbued with advice, caveats, admonishments. Your batterie de cuisine must be immaculate, your hands chilly, your heart resolute. Or you must stir until your arm falls off–this exact wording frequently used. Stir until your arm…
Lamb chops in tomato sauce
As I write, coronavirus is making its way across the world. People are frightened, and nobody knows what to do. Living in earthquake country means we always keep nonperishables on hand, along with plenty of water. This, coupled with my fondness for cooking, means our cupboards are always full, even…
Eating European Tomatoes with The Tomato Sisters
Disclaimer: I’ve recently partnered with The Greatest Tomatoes from Europe, working to publicize their canned tomato products. I am not being paid for my participation, aside from some wonderful canned tomato products from Europe–and some Italian pasta. Any views posted are strictly my own. It’s 8:41 am. I am…
Mock Porchetta
Judy Rodgers, writing in the Zuni Cafe Cookbook, describes mock porchetta as A very modest, very manageable interpretation of the Tuscan “big pig” that few Americans, or Italians, could ever manage at home. Indeed, this comparatively diminutive roast is nothing if manageable–making it my go-to dinner party dish for decades….