Lamb chops in tomato sauce

March 10, 2020

As I write, coronavirus is making its way across the world. People are frightened, and nobody knows what to do.

Living in earthquake country means we always keep nonperishables on hand, along with plenty of water. This, coupled with my fondness for cooking, means our cupboards are always full, even overflowing.

Oakland, as seen from public transit. More exciting than my pantry.

I can’t say I feel prepared.

Neuromuscular disease has weakened my husband’s lungs. Even mild colds are hazardous to him, as they can quickly morph into pneumonia, which he cannot cough out.

San Francisco’s Delores Park, as seen through a dirty bus window. No photos of my husband coughing. I bet you’re sorry to miss that.

I am struggling not to freak out. Also to not behave like a helicopter wife. It’s been challenging. I’ve spent far too much time on my cell phone, fretfully scrolling.

Better to cook.

We have a gap below our front door, and use a towel to block the draft. Sometimes the towel cannot block the draft, because it’s busy doing other things.

Lamb chops in tomato sauce came about when I received a gigantic box of canned tomatoes from the Greatest Tomatoes From Europe folks.

The recipe comes from Marcella Hazan’s Marcella Says...a book I’ve never cooked from. Well, until now.

The original recipe calls for lamb rib chops and peeled red peppers. I used two lamb shoulder chops, as they were what I had. Peeling raw peppers is not my idea of a good time.

Marcella instructs readers to cook the lamb only until pink. If you cannot abide pink lamb, cook it more. However you long you cook it, lamb chops in tomato sauce comes together in moments, an asset when you are surrounded by cranky children (or adults) home from school or work.

About those tomatoes: the recipe calls for fresh plum or imported canned San Marzanos. I used tomato puree, simply because I wanted to open the gorgeous jar. I was not disappointed.

Not gorgeous photo of gorgeous jar.

Marcella doesn’t offer serving suggestions with her lamb; we ate ours with boiled small artichokes and waxy potatoes. A green salad would also be nice here, as would pasta.

Why two bowls, and why do they look different? (Why is this night different from–oh, not yet, never mind.) Because certain people who shall go nameless (who are not me) do not like pepper or onion, and had to get their own special bowl, prepared separately, like a small child. That’s why.

Lamb chops in tomato sauce

with minimal adjustment from Marcella Hazan’s Marcella Says…

Yield: 2 servings, easily scaled upward

Preparation time: about 20 minutes

olive oil, for the pan

2 lamb shoulder chops (see notes for alternatives)

1/2 cup/4 ounces/64g chopped onions

I small red pepper, seeded and sliced into squares (see note, below)

1 small garlic clove, minced (optional)

approximately 3 tablespoons parsley, chopped

1/4 cup/10 g pitted green olives, coarsely chopped

2 cups/475ml imported tomato puree or whole plum tomatoes in juice

Instructions

You will need a large frying or saute pan–large enough to hold the lamb chops and deep enough to comfortably hold the tomato sauce–and a plate or platter to prepare this recipe. I used a 12in/30cm frying pan.

Lamb should be at room temperature when you cook it.

Pour enough olive oil into the pan to generously coat the bottom. This is about 2 tablespoons in my pan. Heat to medium high. Add the lamb chops, salt lightly, and cook 3-4 minutes per side for a pink interior. Cook longer if you prefer lamb more well-done.

Once lamb is cooked to your liking, turn heat down under pan and remove chops to plate.

Adjust heat to medium and add onions, red pepper, and optional garlic clove to pan. Cook about 4 minutes, until onions, pepper, and garlic have softened. Add a little more olive oil if pan is dry.

Add parsley, olives, and tomato sauce. Stir to blend. Simmer for a few minutes. Add lamb chops to sauce. Make sure everything is heated through. Serve in deep pasta bowls or on a large, deep platter.

Lamb with tomato sauce may be refrigerated up to four days. It can be frozen up to two months, but I would freeze the lamb and sauce separately.

Notes:

I used lamb shoulder chops; the original recipe calls for rib chops but notes loin chops work, too.

Hazan is a noted advocate of peeling raw peppers. While I find peeling raw pepper challenging, if you want to try it, here is Hazan’s method: cut the pepper along its natural creases and seed it. Then peel the skin with swivel-bladed peeler using a “side-to-side seesaw motion” with a light touch.

Boneless skinless chicken breasts would also work here; take care not to overcook them.

Bone-in chicken thighs would be even better: remove the skin, as it will become soggy. Preheat the oven to 350F/180C oven. Use an oven safe skillet or baking dish; cook for about 45 minutes, then test it for doneness. If the flesh is still pink, give it another 15 minutes.