Espresso Chocolate Truffles

November 24, 2019

Elizabeth David, writing her magisterially grumpy Elizabeth David’s Christmas, tackles edible gifting with her usual verve, writing:

Those bottles of indeterminate sherry and port, Christmas puddings and tins of tea and fancy biscuits are survivals from the days when such things were distributed by Ladies Bountiful to old retainers, retired nannies and governesses and coachmen who would probably much rather have had a couple bottles of gin. Well, wouldn’t you?

 

It is a sad fact of life that gin cannot be given to everyone. For them, chocolate.

The original recipe for these decadent truffles comes from Jennifer McLagan’s Bitter, and calls for tobacco. I made them this way once–buying a Cuban cigar was quite the adventure–and the resulting truffles were delicous.

I am not suggesting you put tobacco in your truffles. It is a sad fact that tobacco, like so many fun things in life, is bad for you. Here at the IK, espresso is added to truffles to excellent effect. Granted, espresso is not healthful in large quantities. But a teaspoon is not a large quantity.

(though you might want to give tobacco truffles a go, provided there are no small people around, or sanctimonious types. They really are good, and the world is going to hell in a handbasket anyway. Returning to the topic at hand.)

Espresso truffles are easy to make. No tempering, no candy thermometers, none of the fussing that sends people scrambling to buy their chocolates from Mrs. You-Know-Who. Bring heavy cream to a boil, stir in the espresso, let it sit. Melt chocolate, add butter and the merest bit of salt. Mix everything together, pour it into a tin.

Chill. Slice. Toss in cocoa powder. Try not to eat them all yourself.

 

Espresso Chocolate Truffles

Adapted from a recipe in Jennifer McLagan’s Bitter

Yield:24-48 squares, depending on how you slice the chocolates.

1/4 cup/60ml heavy cream

1 1/2 teaspoons instant espresso granules (see notes)

A pinch of fine sea salt (see notes)

3.5 ounces /100 grams ounces bittersweet chocolate

3.5 ounces/50 grams unsalted butter, at room temperature

Cocoa powder, for dusting the truffles

Pour the cream into a small lidded saucepan and bring to gentle boil. Turn the heat down to the lowest setting; add the espresso granules. Stir until combined. Take pan off heat, cover, and allow to infuse for 45 minutes.

Break the chocolate into large pieces. Have a wooden spoon and spoon rest ready. Put the chocolate in a microwave safe measuring cup–I use a Pyrex 2-cup glass measure–and melt the chocolate in 12 second spurts, taking the cup out and stirring each time the nuke stops. Once the chocolate is melted, add the salt. Stir. Add the butter in pieces, stirring between additions. If butter doesn’t melt thorougly, put chocolate back in microwave for 5 seconds or so, taking care to ensure butter is completely amalgamated.

Once 45 minutes are up, place a small strainer over the cup of buttery chocolate and pour the espresso cream through it. There won’t be much, and you may be tempted to skip this step. Don’t–you don’t want grainy truffles.

Stir cream into the buttery chocolate. It will look like frosting.

Now line 7 inch/20cm baking pan–a square or loaf is fine–with plastic wrap. Pour the chocolate into the pan, smoothing it with a spatula if necessary. Chill in refrigerator for about half an hour.

Spoon 2-3 tablespoons cocoa into a medium bowl. Have a plate or platter at hand.

Remove chocolate from refrigerator and cut into slices with sharp, thin-bladed knife. Toss each piece of chocolate in the cocoa and place in the dish. When all truffles (yes, they’re truffles now) are done, put the plate back in the refrigerator and chill for at least an hour.

Once truffles are completely chilled, transfer them to a lidded container, layering them between pieces of wax paper.  They will keep, refrigerated, for several weeks. Remove from refrigerator for about ten minutes before eating.

Notes:

I use Italian instant espresso granules to make truffles. You can also use regular coffee; if so, I’d suggest increasing the amount to a tablespoon, but you know your coffee better than I do.

Sea salt is suggested, as table salt is full of additives. In a recipe with few ingredients, each one stands out. Kosher salt is good alternative.

Other flavors to try: Fruit liqueuers like raspberry, orange, or almond; vanilla or hazelnut extracts, or tiny amounts of mint.

Not chocolate. Also not an edible gift.