Poached chicken with udon noodles started with the noodles, which I made one night to accompany something–I forget what. My memory is not what it was. But I remember liking the noodles far more than the protein, and thinking I’d better write down how I cooked them, right then, mid-meal,…

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Back on the air

September 14, 2025

Hello all- Sorry to be off the air. I would be lying if I said I knew what happened beyond a server issue. Thanks to the tech at Bluehost, who restored the blog in minutes. A new post will be up shortly. I know the past week has been extremely…

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Pie Crust

August 31, 2025

Today’s post is unusual in that the entire thing is a recipe: for pie crust. Rather than give an explanation followed by a recipe repeating much of the post, I decided to let the post be the recipe. I realize many of you know how to make pie crust and…

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Simple Yellow Cake

August 17, 2025

Simple Yellow Cake is a recent addition to my collection of one-bowl cake recipes. The recipe comes from Laurie Colwin’s beloved More Home Cooking, specifically, the essay “Four Easy Pieces.” Unrelated peach picture. For years I read this recipe, which Colwin describes as a “classic, basic sponge cake English women…

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Pickled Eggs

August 3, 2025

Dorothy Hartley, writing in Food In England, offers this unattributed quotation about pickled eggs, dating to 1700: “When eggs are plentiful, farmers wives’ take four or six dozen newly laid, and boil them hard; then, taking off the shells, they place them in earthenware jars and pour upon them scalding…

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Lamb Chops with Pomegranate Molasses and Olive Oil is inspired by a Paula Wolfert recipe in The Slow Mediterranean Kitchen, a book I often cook from. While today’s recipe departs significantly from the original, sources always merit citation. Basically, you’re marinating lamb in pomegranate molasses, olive oil, tomato paste, seasonings,…

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Cherry Ice Cream

July 12, 2025

I know: cherry season is fifteen seconds long, and for many people, that fifteen seconds has passed.  Where I call for cherries, substitute your favorite fresh fruit: peaches, apricots, blueberries, raspberries, strawberries, or plums. Or use frozen fruits. Further, none of these recipes require an ice cream maker. A rather…

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Stir-Fried Okra

June 28, 2025

Today’s recipe, a simple stir-fry, came about after consulting numerous cookbooks. Few American cookbooks mention okra, and those who do often have little good to say about it. Deborah Madison, writing in Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone, can only manage “okra is slimy, and rather than try to ignore this fact,…

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String Beans Provencal

June 18, 2025

The word “Provencal,” like “Tuscany,” sets off a chain of associations: sweeping vistas, weathered farmhouses, trestle tables laden with oozy cheeses and ripe figs. In lieu of such wonders, I give you our back yard, two weeks ago, when the wild roses were blooming . The Alice B. Toklas Cookbook…

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  — For years tuna salad sandwiches, along with hot dogs and fish sticks, were the go-to food when feeding large numbers of American children, especially in school lunchrooms. These sandwiches were comprised of cheap white bread filled with a few limp pickle chips and an oval of tuna fish,…

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