Summer Squash Soup
I know, summer squash soup now? In September?
Well, yes, summer squash soup now, in September. Because zucchini (courgettes to my English friends) are piled high in the markets, along with all manner of yellow summer squash. And my instagram feed is full of posts from my gardener friends, who are busy pickling, potting, or otherwise contending with their zucchini gluts.
It must be said this soup is not the stuff of insta beauty contests. Despite starting with jade green zucchini or deep yellow summer squash, the vegetables fade during cooking. The end result is an unfortunate muddy color. Don’t be discouraged: the color belies the deep flavor.
Summer squash isn’t known for its huge taste; achieving it requires some coaxing in the form of excellent broth and assertive spicing. I know I’ve sneered at commercial broths in the past, but if making your own is impossible, buy good stuff. As for the seasoning, by assertive think salt, pepper, dried oregano, and a generous shake of paprika.
Mr. IK is not fond of onions, meaning only half an onion went into this soup. It was chopped, then gently cooked in butter and olive oil for a good fifteen minutes. The goal is to soften rather than brown. A more prepared person would have carrots in the house, and maybe even some leeks, but I am not that person.
The onion pictures were awful. The booze picture? Fine. Adding liquor to the soup is optional.
Summer squash soup is a good meal during these economically fraught times: it’s inexpensive, may be seasoned in numerous ways, and is easily altered to suit vegan, vegetarian, Kosher, and celiac diets. Further, it tastes good at any temperature and freezes well. Atop all this, Summer squash soup requires no specialty cooking equipment beyond a pot and heat.
The rest of life should be so easy.
Summer Squash Soup
I am indebted to Mollie Katzen’s Still Life With Menu and
Paula Wolfert’s The Cooking of Southwest France in making this recipe
Prep Time: active cooking time is about 25 minutes. The soup needs about 45 minutes to simmer, if that, which is largely unattended.
Please read notes, below, for discussion of ingredients and recipe variations.
Serves 4-6 as a first course, 2-3 as a meal. Easy scaled upward.
2 tablespoons sweet butter
2-3 tablespoons olive oil
1 medium onion, peeled and chopped
1-2 garlic cloves, crushed
3 zucchini or other summer squash, peeled and thinly sliced
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon white pepper (black okay)
1/4-1/2 teaspoon sweet paprika
1/4 teaspoon dried oregano
shot brandy or a little white wine (optional)
4 cups/1 liter chicken or vegetarian broth
1 cup/220 ml dairy of your choice
I used a stick blender to blend the soup. A food processor, blender, or even a potato masher would work as well. If you have none of these, a big fork would suffice. Just take care not to splatter hot soup on yourself.
Melt the olive oil and butter into a large soup pot. Mine is 8 quarts/liters. Add the chopped onion and garlic. Cook over medium low heat, stirring often. Do not allow onions to brown. Cook for 10-15 minutes, until onions are softened and translucent.
Add the zucchini or squash and stir, coating vegetables with butter. Add seasonings and liquor, if using. Cook gently for about five minutes.
Add broth and stir. Bring liquid to gentle simmer and cook for about 25 minutes, stirring occasionally.
Blend using a stick blender, food processor, blender, potato masher, or large fork. Be careful. Hot soup burns are not the way to emerge from a worldwide pandemic.
Return soup to stove. Turn heat to low. Add whatever dairy you are using and stir to blend.
Serve with bread, cheese, and a salad.
Summer squash soup keeps, refrigerated in a covered container, three days. Freeze, in a covered container, up to three months.
Notes:
Zucchini are not standard, so it’s hard to give exact weights. I used three, which weighed just under one pound, or 500 grams.
To peel or not to peel? I peeled mine, as they were not organic. If your vegetables are organic, or come from your garden, no need to peel, but the decision is yours.
Adding dairy: I used heavy cream because I had it in the house. Feel free to use whatever you like, from 2% milk to buttermilk to heavy cream. I have never used plant milks in my cooking, but if you prefer these by all means, go ahead.
Shallots, leeks, and scallions would work as well as white onion.
Add 1-2 peeled, cut up carrots if you wish.
Seasonings are variable: try ground cumin and coriander, a tiny pinch of clove and cinnamon, a squeeze of lime and dried hot chile, or sumac. Chaat masala with dried ground pomegranate would also be delicious.
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