Buttery, tangy cauliflower

A few weeks ago I bought a broccoflower-a broccoli-cauliflower cross–at the market. It was a perfect specimen, pale orange, beautiful. But the world was ugly that day, and posting broccoflower pictures online felt tone deaf.

That night I cooked my perfect broccoflower with butter and seasonings. Distracted, I paid little attention to what I was doing.  And of course, the broccoflower was terrific.

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Weeks later, the world remains a difficult place. No brassica, be it a head of broccoli, a broccoflower, or a cauliflower, can change that.

We still need to eat our vegetables.

Vowing to pay closer attention, I bought a cauliflower and attempted to replicate what I’d done that distracted night.

Into the kitchen.

Buttery, tangy cauliflower requires minimal prep. Trim any discolored bits; remove any leaves past their prime. Pare the stem. That’s all.

Plonk your sleek cauliflower into a pot of lightly salted water. Bring the water to a vigorous boil. Cover the pot and let the cauli cook until tender, 15-20 minutes. Your cauliflower is used whole in this recipe, so the goal is cooked through but not collapsing.

I moved the cauliflower from pan to strainer with a spider. Lacking a spider or comparable implement, gently tip the cauliflower into the strainer. Again, the goal is to keep the vegetable intact. There’s a joke about keeping it together here, but I can’t quite find it.

Let the cauliflower cool a bit, then move it to a bowl or rounded dish it just fits. Using a thin-bladed knife, make several deep cuts into the cauliflower. Please be careful. Do not burn yourself and sue me. You have been warned.

Using this same knife or your clean fingers, slip a half-tablespoon butter into the cuts. This butter may be cut into in small, neat slices, or may be distributed in a more freeform manner. Your call. Either way, the butter will melt. Some will slide down the outer edges of the cauliflower. Some will ooze into the cuts. Make sure the entire cauliflower is generously buttered.

At this point some of you may be a bit unnerved by the amount of butter in this recipe. If so, use less. Do what feels–and tastes–best for you.

The cauliflower gets its tangy flavor thanks to a Mexican seasoning called Tajin. There are a few varieties of Tajin seasoning on the market; today’s recipe uses the classic version, made with lime, chili pepper, and salt. The chilis are quite mild and the lime makes it totally addictive.

If Tajin eludes you, it is widely available online. But tanginess may also be found via fresh limes. You might also try sumac, ground pomegranate seeds (Anardana), or even celery salt, but if you opt for this last, take care when salting later.

Buttery, tangy cauliflower is further seasoned with dried oregano, salt, and pepper. Nothing earth-shattering there.

The dish is finished with a quarter teaspoon onion powder, and then, for good measure, a pinch of garlic powder.

Until recently I was really sniffy about onion and garlic powders. I felt only the real deals–fresh onion, fresh garlic–were acceptable seasonings in serious kitchens. Then I read a recipe in Cook’s Illustrated calling for both, and changed my attitude.

Served with a green salad and bread, buttery, tangy cauliflower makes a lovely vegetarian dinner. For a heartier meal, serve buttery, tangy cauliflower atop your favorite pasta. Buttery, tangy cauliflower would also pair well with chicken or pork dishes.